The tie does not go out of fashion and all the neo-creators cannot eliminate this merveillous littleband of silk who for a minority could appear derisory but for a majority is synonymous with elegance and respect. This band of fabric (scarf tied around the neck) was invented during the thirty years war by the Croatian Cavaliers and is found represented on the tomb of QIN SHI HUANGDI the first chinese emperor. (III century before our era). Cravate is a distorsion and shortening of the word Croate.

In the last century the tie obtained it's importance and tittles of nobility in a shape quite far removed from own actual tie much doser to the cavalliere than from the tie in itself. It was the prerogative of the greats and nobles.

In the seventies the tie market was a secondery one and was really worn as an accessory and not as the centre piece of the male dress.The tie felt into anonymity and commouplace. This is due to the apparition of shirts with large stripes and the lack of originality of " Shirt makers " where the matching of stripes and fantasy ties where " banned ". It was at this period that we saw the appearance of plain ties and especially knitted wool, always with very dark colours (dark blue, black,bordeaux and brown).Conversety suits became more elaborate : wide lapels which touched the top of the suit arm, double and triple stilches and to crown everything striped shirts with inordinate pointed collors.

THE RENEWAL

In the middle of the eighties Pierre CARDIN revolutionised, amongst other things, ties with much fantasy inspiring his creations
from contempory painters work such as VASARELIS. At that time the widths of ties were enormous, a minimum of 12 cm (5 inches). Now stabilised at 10 cm (4 inches).

For the last ten years the tie has become the essential masculine elegance element, the tie is the most num of the mill but also the most seductive of a man's Jewelery. More than just a simple accessory it is a real style of expression, a way for the wearer to assent himself. Ever since it became an object of being an appearance, it has not ceased to be transformed and embellised by it's motifs and it's fabrics ; infinitely combined to embellish us. Numerous stylists and creators have used this support to reproduce works of art by great master's on this little band of silk by letting their sometimes discreet, or wild imaginations run free. It then becomes of a real work of art.

TENDENCIES

A few seasons ago we witnessed an exuberance in the colours and themes of ties : large flowers bursting with colour ; large ethnic drawings. The demande has now become softer and more refined, small drawings with indescent colours and not excessive, discreet and elegant themes but without falling into the sadness of the Anglo-Saxon collections of the 50's to 70's.

The strong demande for hand weaved "Jacquard " silk with which the tie " handles " well, where the knot is generous and elegant.

The fabric wants to be more " noble "printed silks, hand, weaved jacquard thread dyed,grenadine, reps, satin Duchesse …

The most beautiful silks weigh between 25 to 30 momis (silk measuring unit), those which have not received to large a dose of lead in replacement of seracine (wax substance in the cocoon).

The making is always by hand from the cutting to the assembly with inside two sorts of wool or cotton covered by the silk with threads. Sewed in a certain way which gives the tie a suppleness and is finished by a "buckle". The cut (3 or 7 folds) is allways at a perfect slant which stops it screwing with a half bottle shape and enables a much more becoming knot with a small touch of refinement which is the " drop ".

The essential complimentarity element to the tie is the pouch and the braces which are made from the same fabric as the tie but with different drawings which take up one or several of the ties colours.

 The tie " real work of art "

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